Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
"PowerHouse" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / fuel
« Last post by Txalmay on October 18, 2018, 01:34:46 PM »
The plans suggest that the best fuel is ethanol motor fuel. The only ethanol fuel I find is fireplace fuel. Is this the same? Has anyone tried it? I know that alcohol from home depot won't work.
2
Tool & Accessory Plans / Re: Electric motor sources
« Last post by Txalmay on July 30, 2018, 12:29:54 PM »
I found a good motor for the mini drill from Zoro on the internet. You can power it with a lap-top type 24v 10 amp supply, but you will need to create a starting device. The resistance before starting is 1.2 Ohms which will draw a 20 Amp surge when starting, looking like a short to the power supply. One way is to put the switch on the ac line side so the power supply and the motor ramp up together. Better to add a 2-3 Ohm 5W resistor shorted out with a relay after a second or two.

Or you can get a big power supply and put it in a box, resulting in something the size of a bread box. Not cool.

The motor I got from Zoro is their # G1958126. 24 V, 6 Amp, which fits nicely.
3
"Howell V-Twin" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / Cor Rademeyer's completed Howell V-Twin
« Last post by ahowell on March 27, 2018, 09:43:49 AM »
Hello Alan

As promised, hereby a link to the video of my completed Howell Twin 4-stroke.

https://youtu.be/F44qsIr_AEA

I was unable to register on you forum to post it there.

Regards

Cor Rademeyer

------------------------------------------
Looks and runs great Cor.  Thanks for sharing!
I had to turn off self-registration due to "bots" trying to hijack the message board.  :(

 
4
1906 "Bill" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / Matt Parker's "Bill"
« Last post by ahowell on March 16, 2018, 07:51:15 AM »
Here's an e-mail I received from Mr. Parker on Mar 15, 2018

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Allen,

My name is Matt Parker. I built one of your father’s PowerHouse engines and exchanged emails with you during that build. I believe you even have a link to my video of it running on the forum.  Anyway, I just thought I’d share a couple of “in the process” build pics from my current engine. It is the 1906 Bill Engine.  I pretty well have the engine itself finished (aside from minor detail work) and have started the radiator build.  Another fun and challenging build.  I should add expensive too.  That dog gone brass has gotten expensive.  Hopefully I will be sending pics and/or a video of the completed engine in the near future.  I just hope I did the engine justice.

Sincerely,
Matt Parker
Sparta, IL

-----------------------------------------------------

Looks great Matt!  Thank you for sharing.  You never know how many other builders are inspired!
5
Tool & Accessory Plans / Re: Photo of "Micro Drill"
« Last post by Txalmay on January 21, 2018, 05:56:12 PM »
I found a motor on Amazon called "Dc 12V 10000 RPM Mini" which has enough power using a 12v wall wort which actually puts out 14v. It is important to use the very small motor pulley, and not be tempted to make a larger one. The O-ring belt I am using is 0024. 
6
Buy/Sell/Trade / Fuller & Johnson Hit & Miss Casting For Sale
« Last post by ahowell on November 22, 2017, 02:17:17 PM »
Dad purchased this Fuller & Johnson casting in 1993 for $350.  I've been told it's probably worth $550 now.   It's been sitting around for almost 25 years collecting dust and now has a little surface rust.  I have the most rusty side of each part exposed in the photo, so the back sides of each part are less rusty (or none at all).

Flywheel diameter is 9".  Included are 11 pages of drawings on 8.5 x 11 sheets, plus two Fuller & Johnson decals.  It will ship in two USPS Large Flat Rate boxes costing $18.85 each, so we'll round this up to $40 for shipping.

If you are interested, send an email allen@outpostenterprises.com and I will send you a Paypal invoice for $590
7
"Howell V-Twin" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / Re: Hogan Half-Twin
« Last post by Hogan on October 27, 2017, 06:27:24 PM »
Here are some notes I made as I was cleaning up the drawings.  Theye might help explain some of the stuff the drawings dont show.

Allen thanks for the support.

Hogan
8
"Howell V-Twin" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / Hogan Half-Twin
« Last post by ahowell on October 26, 2017, 08:26:04 AM »
I received this e-mail from Hogan Liechty back in Aug '17:
------------------------------------------------------------------

I am in the process of designing and building a single cylinder overhead cam 4 stroke model engine loosely based on the design concepts of Jerry's V-Twin.

I have not directly copied any of Jerrys designs but I have used them for inspiration.  Jerry's V Twin was the most difficult yet satisfying build I have completed.  Mine runs great.

Because it was so difficult to build the gear train and I wanted to try designing an overhead cam engine, I designed a single cylinder using Jerry's basic crankcase, cylinder, head, and flywheel concepts.  My final goal is to design a V-Twin OHC engine using the same concepts.

The obect of this e-mail is to give credit where credit is due. I have no desire to profit from my design work but would like to share it with the model making world.

I would be happy to give you a copy of my designs in PDF format and you can do with them what you want.  They are by no means ready to market on your web site since they are for my own shop use and are not fully detailed. If you want to complete them and make them market ready feel free to do so.  All I ask is aknowedgement  for the concept.

I am almost done with the build and will be trying to start my engine soon.  I have also shared part of my build on HMEM forum and have tried to give Jerry credit for the design concepts I have used.

I will attach a couple picture to show what I have done.

Please let me know if you want the drawings and will send them to you as soon as I have my engine running.

Thanks,
Hogan Liechty
---------------------------------------------------------------

Click on the photos below to enlarge.
Hogan sent me his drawings.  Click the link below to download for free or up to $5.00 donation.

Add to Cart

Great project.  Thanks for sharing, Hogan.
9
"PowerHouse" 4-Cycle Gas Engine / Matt Parker's Powerhouse
« Last post by ahowell on July 04, 2017, 04:21:16 PM »
Got this email from Matt Parker on July 4, 2017.  Click the youtube link at the bottom to see it run!
----------------------

Allen,

Thanks again for helping me to solve my hall sensor problem. Even though it wasn't anything more than a bonehead move on my part, it was you who insisted it was the hall sensor leading to me finding the issue.
The below video is my engine finally taking its first breaths of life. Thanks to your father for a great set of plans which allows folks like me to accomplish these builds. I look forward to the next engine build.

Thanks again,
Matt Parker


https://youtu.be/HcVUV9TMys4
10
"Farm Boy" 4 -Cycle Hit-&-Miss Engine / Missing crankshaft/bearing hole?
« Last post by ahowell on May 04, 2017, 06:09:04 AM »
Here's a valid question I received from Richard Piaseki on May 1, 2017:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just bought the plans for the Farm Boy engine and after reviewing the drwgs., I have a question. Sheet #3 does not show a .500 hole for the crankshaft/bearing. Is there a reason for this or just an omission error?
Regards,
Richard Piasecki
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I wasn't sure, and I also noticed a similar issue with the connecting rod end, so I asked "EngineMaker' (builder of Farmboy #3).  Here's his reply:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
On page #3 your Dad gave the dimensions for the placement of the holes as 1.820" from the back edge of the frame and 1.280" from the back of the lap joint. Now the size of the hole is the .500" dimension shown on the crankshaft bushings shown on page #9. Half of the hole is in the bearing cap and the other half is in the frame. I drill and ream my 1/2" holes as the bearing should be captured by the bearing cap ( so it doesn't spin) bur not crush the .376" inside bushing dimension.
 
On page #8 if you look at the connecting rod drawing, the bottom of the connecting rod dimension is .400" wide and the cap is also .400" wide. The hole goes at the seam of the 2 parts and in the center ( the .900" divided by 2 = .450") from  the edge. The hole size is the .561" dimension shown on page #8 as the rod end bushing. You could actually make the hole drilled an reamed .562" and the bushing .561" dimension .562". In this case the rod cap bolts going through the bearing keep the bearing from turning. My guess is that your Dad meant to say "Drill and Ream a .562 hole through rod big end" instead of .282" as shown on the rod big end assembly picture shown on page #8.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10